Reading the Country the companion to A Coast Running Out of Water

The season

Summer — the dry

December to February, the tap shut and the ridge locked overhead — the season every plant and animal in the Adelaide region is built around surviving, and the one the fire trucks are built around too.

On the gradient
Not one site but the whole transect at once — the same closing act plays out from the samphire flats to the summit
Summer — the dry — diagram

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What you'll take away

By December the green has already started leaving the year. Paddock grass that stood soft and blond-tipped in October cures to full straw within a few dry weeks, the clay under it shrinks and cracks into a crazy paving you can lose a finger into, and cicadas take over the soundtrack with a drone that only quits after dark. This is the season the rest of Adelaide’s ecology spends eleven months preparing for: the dry half of the Mediterranean bargain, when the subtropical ridge parks itself overhead and switches the rain off. It is not a gentle absence. Adelaide’s hottest recorded day arrived in the middle of it — 46.6°C at West Terrace on 24 January 2019 — and a run of days at or above 35°C, on the order of seventeen a year at the Airport, is the going rate for this stretch of the calendar rather than a series of exceptions.

Life crosses this gap two ways, and the difference is worth learning to see. One strategy is to keep working: the hard, small, leathery leaves of the local sclerophyll bush hoard water well enough to stay green and photosynthesising right through the drought, the same toughness independently invented on five continents wherever a climate sets this exact test (Cowling et al. 1996). The other is to stop: skinks and small mammals shift to the cool hours either side of noon, geophytes pull their whole above-ground selves back into a bulb or tuber underground, and the shadiest gullies fill up with everything that cannot bear the heat of the open ridge-top. Running on what it banked, or shutting down to wait — between those two answers is most of what is alive here in February.

Summer is also fire season, and for the same reason it is drought season: cured grass and leaf litter, low humidity, and hot northerly winds that can precede a cool change by hours, all stacked under a climate that has always burned as part of its normal rhythm rather than as disaster (Keeley et al. 2012). Walk into a stringybark forest three weeks after such a fire and it looks finished — blackened trunks, a grey felt of ash — until the bark breaks out in green fuzz from buds that were waiting under it the whole time (Burrows 2013). That is the trick to reading an Adelaide summer honestly: the brown, the crack and the smoke are not the country failing. They are the test it has been rehearsing for since long before anyone kept a thermometer, and the readiness is written into practically everything green or breathing you can find.

Sources for this guide · 4

Every claim here is traceable. Each citation links to its entry in the bibliography.

Concepts this teaches — follow a thread

The Mediterranean bargain (two seasons, not four)The fire regimeHard leaves (sclerophylly)Built to burn

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Autumn — the breakSpring — the floweringWinter — the green

Test yourself →

Three weeks after a summer fire has torn through a Mount Lofty stringybark forest, the blackened trunks are breaking out in a fuzz of green leaves. What is actually going on?

Eucalypts carry dormant epicormic buds under their bark, and the bark itself is thick enough to insulate those buds from all but the hottest fires — so the green fuzz on a blackened trunk is the tree drawing on a structure it had ready long before the flames arrived, not a fresh start from seed. That is why recovery can show within weeks rather than the years a true seeder needs to re-establish from scratch (Burrows 2013). It is also why a scorched hillside three weeks on reads as a building site rather than a graveyard — the readiness was already built into the bark.